Indications:
Comedones — blackheads
Closed Comedones — whiteheads / milia
Papules — pimples appearing as elevated / inflamed bumps
Pustules — overburdened pimples with a whitehead
Cysts — pimples formed under the skin appearing as boil-like large red lumps
Nodules — firm pimples formed deeply under the skin, often skin-toned
Most common in adolescence with 89% of teens experiencing some form of acne, but can form at any point in life Most common areas of formation are face, neck, and back
Causes
Acne is caused by the development of c. acnes bacteria in combination with excessive sebum and corneocytes within the hair follicle creating a "blockage." This causes inflammation (i.e. white blood cells rush to heal the surrounding cells), which can create pustular or cystic acne in more severe cases.
Factors that can lead to c. acnes formation:
Candida overgrowth in the gut
Heavy cosmetics
Hormonal imbalances / fluctuations
Food sensitivities — such as dairy
Harsh / stripping products — disrupts the skin's barrier leading to bacteria formation and
overproduction of sebum
Genetic predisposition
Stress — produces cortisol which increases sebum production
Environmental factors — such as humidity or pollution
Fatty, rich, or fried foods — results in higher levels of inflammatory fatty acids in sebum
Treatment
Before choosing a treatment plan and home care products, it's important to find the root cause of the acne by conducting a thorough consultation with a skin care professional. Acne should be treated differently depending on the cause and the client's specific skin.
Professional Options
Hydra-dermabrasion (not over pustules or cysts)
Bi-monthly or monthly acne facials
LED Therapy
Mild chemical peels / enzyme peels
High frequency
Photo-pneumatic therapy (IPL + suction)
Photodynamic therapy (PDT)
Ingredient Options
For adolescent acne:
BHA's (such as salicylic acid)
Vitamin A (retinol)
Benzoyl Peroxide
Enzymatic peels
Niacinamide
For hormonal acne:
Vitamin A (retinol)
Phytoestrogens
Enzymatic peels
Niacinamide
Benzoyl peroxide (area treatment only)
Hyaluronic acid (for healing)
For oily skin:
Vitamin A (retinol)
BHA's & AHA's
Sodium cocoamphoacetate (coconut fatty acid surfactant) — in place of drying foaming
agents
Niacinamide
Vitamin C
Hyaluronic acid
Internal Options
8-10 cups of water daily
Dark leafy greens
Omega 3 — evening primrose for hormone balancing phytoestrogens
Probiotic
Vitamin A
Vitamin C
Home Care Advisory
Do not skip moisturizing
Protect skin from free-radicals with antioxidants daily
Maintain consistency with a skincare routine
Use high-impact, concentrated products like serums and masks
Wear mineral SPF every day
Do not over-cleanse, over-exfoliate, or "strip" the skin
Look for soothing ingredients to pair with each active
Do not use physical scrubs or aggressive exfoliation (this can move bacteria to new
follicles and activate more oil production)
Speak to your doctor about hormonal imbalances and contraceptive options
Source: SkinCareLit.com